KYLE’S CORNER – AUTO REPAIR HELP DIAGNOSE – ENGINE IDLES TOO HIGH SYMPTOM SUMMARYThe engine idles too high. The usual cause of abnormally high idle speeds are vacuum leaks or an inoperative idle speed control motor. A vacuum leak on a fuel injected engine will cause high idle. The oxygen sensor will detect the extra oxygen that is entering the engine through the vacuum leak and will signal the computer the exhaust is lean. The computer in turn will then provide additional fuel which will result in an abnormally high idle. The first step in the diagnosis is visual inspection. Inspect the throttle cable and linkage for binding. Inspect the engine for vacuum leaks. With the engine at idle, visually inspect each vacuum hose on the vehicle. Listen for a hissing sound which is a key indicator of a vacuum leak. Repair the vacuum hoses as necessary. Inspect the PCV valve and hose. Using pliers, pinch off the hose that supplies the PCV valve. The engine speed should drop slightly.

If the engine returns to a normal idle speed, the PCV valve should be replaced. Consult a vehicle specific service manual for location and specific testing procedures. If the vehicle is free from vacuum leaks and the PCV valve is functioning normally, the idle speed control motor or valve may be defective. PRECAUTIONS, TIPS, and NOTES You should consult a vehicle specific service manual for proper diagnosis of the system used on your vehicle. Use caution when working around hot or rotating engine parts. has an affinity for Pale Ale and tooling on his 1956 Chevrolet NomadMakita BHX2501 Petrol Blower 24.4cc 4 Stroke Engine £179.00(£149.17 ex VAT)Save £118.60 Currently On Order - Back In Stock Soon Please enter your email address below to be notified when this product comes back into stock. Out of Stock Notification TOOLSTOP Part No: MAK-BHX2501Makita BHX2501 Petrol Blower 24.4cc 4 Stroke Engine The MAKITA BHX2501 takes the hard work out of clearing leaves and garden debris.

It is a practical broom for sweeping up leaves, hedge trimmings or paper litter. Equipped with an easy start 4-stroke petrol engine with a mechanical decompression system for easy recoil pulling. The high air volume matched with a low weight makes this blower a perfect partner for all cleaning tasks. With the flat nozzle and the vacuum attachment as an optional extra the blower can be converted into a powerful vacuum cleaner.dyson vacuum cleaner price singapore Easy start 4-stroke petrol engineelectrolux mini vacuum cleaner Can be used as a Blower or Vaccumnew aeg vacuum cleaner Clean exhaust emission and low fuel consumption Mechanical decompression system for easy recoil pullingCall 0800 107 8665 or Email Us quoting @14466.Return to top of page »**images for illustrative purposes only - please refer to description and specification for full details of productInternal ID: B004Z55FTC

Cubic Capacity 24.5 cc Max Airflow - 10.1 m�/min Vibration K factor 0.5 m/sec� Net weight 4.4 kg Vibration no load 9.3 m/sec� Total Shipping Weight: 6kg reviews verified by Ease of usePerformanceDesign and ErgonomicsFunctionalityValue for moneyOverall rating It is 4 stroke easy to use & not too heavy Easy starter - 4 stroke - reasonably powerful.It needs to be adjustable. Engine is too heavy and not balanced, meaning you have to push nozzle downwards all the time. Not as easy to use as Sthil and Husqvarna. Does exactly what I hoped it would, starts first time and so far (10 uses) completely reliable Website not clear what is "in the box" You do get both round and flat nozzlesAlso gives impression that it comes filled with oil - it doesn't Makita 195283-6 Suction Kit For BHX2500 / BHX2501 Blower £59.00(£49.17 ex VAT)Save £49.00 Dewalt DCV100 Compact Blower 18V Cordless XR (Body Only) £75.00(£62.50 ex VAT)Save £9.00

Scheppach GSE40S 2800W Silent Electric Garden Shredder £200.00(£166.67 ex VAT)Save £40.00I have checked all vacuum lines, sprayed carb cleaner around MAP sensor, Intake manifold gaskets, between throttle body and manifold and around all vacuum points. I've cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. Ive read that fuel filter might need changed, but 95% of posts for Too lean on both banks point to vacuum leak. Anything I'm missing here or should I go for the fuel filter next?Just as a little history - My employees car. She drove it to failure last year due to overheating. I replaced her waterpump and thermostat last year and it ran well. Started having issues this winter and she didnt tell me till it alkmost wouldnt move. It was throwing over a dozen codes. Just replaced all sparkplugs and one ignition coil and oil change etc. Also found the front valve cover to be loose and fixed that. Runs like a champ now, but has those two codes still. Am Guessing the fuel filter does need changed as she hasnt maintained well and it does have 109,000 on it, but really want to find the code issue.

Well, you seem to be doing all the right things ...but too lean on both banks could be the MAP is faulty and cleaning it didn't do the trick. easy for me to say I know they are a hundred bucks..but maybe it can be tested before you put out that much for a 'maybe' 14 out of 14 people think this is Codes P0171 & P0174 usually means unmetered air is getting into the engine. Not detected by the MAF. You said you already cleaned it, but a vacuum leak is always the culprit when it comes to these codes. Could be a faulty hose, or an intake gasket. Some mechanics will "smoke" the car to find the leak. The way I usually find them is start the car, and get under the hood and start moving the hoses around and you'll here a hiss. Also look for collapsed hoses and loose hose clamps. 7 out of 7 people think this is If there are no intake leaks, the next step is to replaced the air filter and clean the airIf the problem persist the front oxygen (O2) sensor may need to be--- Here's a link to Jaguar specific codes - there are some TSB links at the

19 out of 19 people think this is Considering the repair history and mileage, and that it is a consistant hard code, it could be the O2 sensors are fouled and not responding quick enough. I worked on a 1981 Cadillac 6-8-4 engine where the check engine light would flicker while driving but wouldn't set codes. Most notable symptom was that while driving with the light flickering you could use the AC control head (used to control diagnostics) to force 4, 6, or 8 cylinder operation without going into diagnostic mode. I found out, several years later from a Cadillac Service Engineer, that the sluggish O2 sensor was putting the computer into a factory production line diagnostic test mode(negative voltage on the sensor input accessed by the worker from a green connector under the hood). Checking fuel pressure will give you an idea about the fuel filter or imminent failure of the fuel pump. Clogged fuel tank venting could also cause a reduced fuel pressure. A couple of fouled injectors could also be causing it to run lean.

In 1984 I ran into a whole slew of Oldsmobiles that consistantly fouled injectors when using Texaco gas. I think a clogged air filter would give a rich condition. 2 out of 2 people think this is let me share you my experience in here with my jaguar x type 2009 ,what you call it limp mode or engine hesitation or engine stall on 3000 RPM, initially the problem was intermittent then became hard,and this was my 1- fault codes pulled and showing both the codes P0171 and P0174 both 2- unable to observe any air leak related to hoses between brake booster and inlet manifold and vacuum pump, i can hear hissing sound but unable to locate that while hoses in place and due to lack of proper tools 3- i start thinking to prepare my self to put all the possibilities to gather such as booster hose ,fuel filter,inlet manifold upper and lower gaskets and fuel 4- starting with the booster hose , i removed the hose and gues what ?????? i found the check valve totally deteriorated and heavily leaking but i never

had a brakes issue, same replaced thinking that the issue killed but unfortunately i did not erase the fault codes and after drive test no change the problem still persist here i need to tell you may be i did a mistake as i did not clear the fault codes 5- air inlet manifold removed and both upper and lower gaskets replaced , fuel injectors cleaned then after all of that the problem still persist after the test drive and even became more worse, i really got disappointed then it click to me to erase the fault codes ...... woooowoo ...... ya ... the problem cleared and the engine running and accelerate like wonderful. No fuel filter ,MAF sensor and O2 sensors not touched i think the problem solved once i did replace the brake booster hose but the problem persist as i did not clear the fault codes , i was looking for the check valve to show the valve status but unfortunately it looks i but in the Bin There are two actuators (black & round) on the left side of the intake

manifold that control the blending of short runner/long runner. have round green gaskets under them that are known to leak and cause stumbling/rough idle, mixture problems, hissing, unmeteredOn the 2.5 the one closet to the rear can be changed in place by tilting it toward the front of the vehicle to remove andThe 3.0 often requires removing the intake to replace it's gaskets for those actuators. I bought the gaskets for my 2.5 but have not yet needed to replace them. They are not expensive. My 2000 XKR suddenly developed a rough idle. Engine codes showed too leak bank 1 and 2. Shots of throttle cleaner identified the area to the rear of the intake. I found a bolt missing on ERG valve. I had the same issue. Driving me crazy because I was trying to sell my 2005 Jag X-Type AWD.... I looked under the hood and found that my air cleaner was not screwed down..... I screwed the air cleaner back down reset the codes and now no more issues....

I lost a sale yesterday The air cleaner box may have not the problem as the light came back on and same codes. I started looking for an air leak and found one.The bushing that holds the vac tube in on the upper intake was slightly cracked. When sprayed with carb cleaner the engine would hesitate. I used high temp rv silicon and so far the light has stayed off. 5 out of 5 people think this is I wanted to say thanks guys. I have a 2005 Jaguar X-type. I had the same faults P0171 and P0174 and changed out the O-Ring, Air filter, Fuel filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and still no change. I then decided to change out the brake booster hose and sure enough, it had a nice size whole in the check valve (middle part). I replaced it and I'm waiting to see if the code clears. I was told it should clear on its on after I drive it around a couple of miles. Computer should reset its self. If it doesn't how do I clear the fault? I'm thinking the whole was pretty big and I don't think the MAF sensor needs to be replaced.