It’s just too much.  It drives me crazy.  It makes me mad!  But this post isn’t an opportunity for me to vent, it’s actually my way to share with you how to vacuum like a professional, without having to go through the pain I went through to learn all of this.  See, once I learned the proper way to do it, it became palatable…. I could at least manage.  I still don’t like it, but at least I know how to do it well enough to get great results in the least amount of time.  So let me show you the 5 tips that will get you vacuuming like a pro! Ok, well, not literally, but get to know them and leverage them to make vacuuming a lot easier and to get even more use out of your vacuum. Most vacuums come with at least a few attachments – all of which have a specific use – so, let’s quickly cover off what each one does: This long, narrow tool is designed to get into corners, the area between your baseboard and your floor (you get a lot of build-up there), under spaces, in between the small crevices in upholstery, etc.  

It’s useful and man, does it work! This is designed to, well, remove dust and debris from upholstery.  Depending on the brand of vacuum you have, it may have a little lint removal strip which you can manually clean after each use.  Mine is always full of cat hair (go figure). This essentially makes your vacuum into an electric broom.  Hard floor attachments have fine bristles, like a broom, attached to the bottom which won’t scratch your floors (like a powerhead can).  That said, upright vacuums and some canister vacuums may not come with a separate attachment, so you may just need to flip a switch on your powerhead which pops bristles out at the base, thus protecting your hard floor surfaces from scratching. This is used for dusting and cleaning small, delicate spaces.  For example, it’s great to use for cleaning a keyboard, cleaning out a drawer, etc.  I use mine a lot! It has the same bristles as a hard floor brush which means it won’t scratch a surface.  

The power of baking sodaI talk about it all the time.  But I can’t help it!  Carpets harbour a LOT of odours, especially for all you pet owners out there – so, to tackle the stanky carpet blues all you need is a generous sprinkle of baking soda over your entire carpet and let it sit and work its magic for about 15-20 minutes.  lux vacuum cleaner serviceAfter the time has elapsed, simply vacuum it all up as you normally would! vacuum cleaner bags sears kenmoreThis also helps deodorize the vacuum canister, so you know, why not?  bosch upright vacuum cleanerWe also learned last week (when we explored pet hair management) that baking soda can help loosen carpet fibers a little and release pet hair.  

Position your vacuum canister and all cords and the hose behind you. You always want the vacuum canister to be behind you, of course if you are using an upright, just keep the cords behind you.  Position the vacuum head in front of you and nestle it into the corner that is the exact diagonal opposite from your exit point (that way you don’t vacuum yourself anywhere else aside from out the door). Work toward the door! This might sound simple, but it’s a handy tip to avoid you vacuuming yourself into a corner (and then getting footprints all over your precious cut lines!).   You ALWAYS want to start your vacuuming at the opposite end of the room in accordance with the door (as I said earlier).  That way, there won’t be any footprints on your freshly cleaned carpets.  On that note, where you plug your vacuum in is quite important.  If you plug it in in front of you, you’ll be vacuuming over cords, you’ll have a tough time keeping the vacuum behind you and you will most definitely have to walk over your freshly vacuumed carpets to unplug it.  

So, always look for the socket that is closest to your exit point, and re-position it if you have to as you work your way toward the exit point of the room.  Some people get extension cords so they never have to unplug all the time.  And,  I’m telling you, when I learned this one, it all clicked in. What are your vacuuming secrets?  Please share, because if I can find a way to make this job even easier, I definitely want to know! /chat/viewtopic.php%3Fp%3D118509 on this server. Your technical support key is: 340c-2e80-1756-6707For the best and latest presentation of my favorite techniques, see Chapter 4 of . Meanwhile, here's a collection of tips I've discovered myself and(Thanks especially to Rob Bowker, Gregory Fischer, Paul Dobias, Tim McCoy, Jared Mogensen, Jett Morton, Paul Musgrave, Lynn Myers, Robert Neuwirth, Paul Panella, Joseph Pierson, George Prytulak, Paul Ross, Matthieu Th�or�t, Lane Welch, and PeterEverybody, if you have more tips, !

Before you do anything: Think about whether you're willing to live with the consequences if you mess up. Try to make sure that your alterations are reversible, and don't do anything to a truly rare machine other than gentle dusting and cleaning. best way to get familiar with restoration techniques is to experiment on an ordinary typewriter first (how about a good oldWhenever possible, test all these techniques on a hidden surface of the typewriter before you attack the main Online Typewriter Support, by Will Davis, provides further advice on operating, maintaining, and repairing a For more good ideas about restoration, check out The Names of some products below are linked to Google Products so you can compare prices online. Initial cleanup and lubrication Click here for a basic illustrated guide to cleaning and lubrication from a 1977 Reader's Digest book. These are happy hours for me, as I get to discover the various parts

and features of my new typewriter and I start to uncover the beauty hidden under the filth. The paint on your typewriter may appear cracked and dull, but chances are that you are looking at decades' worth of tightly compacted dirt, grease, ink, sweat, and cigaretteIf you can manage to remove that layer of crud, you may find that the underlying paint job is still smooth and can be made toIf you're unlucky, the crud will turn out to be a layer of varnish applied at the factory, which has grown wrinkly and brownthat can be hard to remove. Of course, if you're lucky enough to find a typewriter that has been kept in a case, this won't be an issue -- it will just need a little loving care. you'll find the following items useful: The following substances can help remove dirt and grease (often old typewriters have been over-oiled at some point in the past, or even dipped in a vat of oil, which in the long term turns into a sticky

mess that must be removed). How do you remove mold from a typewriter? Improving paint, metal, rubber, and other The typical deep-black color of an early typewriter consists of lacquer, which is quite difficult to restore. introduced in the 1920s. Typewriters also have many metal parts which are susceptible to rust and discoloration. parts of older typewriters are nickel-plated; Feet and feed rollers The platen is the printing surface of a typewriter -- normally, aThe rubber on an old platen may get hard and slick, so that it doesn't grip paper properly and the type hits it with a harsh, loud impact. Here's the sensuous phase. Loving applications and re-applications of polishing agents will leave your typewriter looking glossy, freshYou'll be amazed at the difference! Manual typewriters operate on relatively simple principles, and you can usually fix a problem using patient investigation and someBut don't underestimate the need to keep track of all