Home Theater Projector Reviews Sanyo PLV-Z4 Projector Review Product Name: PLV-Z4 Projector February 25, 2006 19:00 Brightness: 1000 ANSI lumensContrast: Up to 7,000:1 (stated full on/off) Resolution: 1280 x 720 native HD resolutionAspect Ratio: Widescreen native 16:9 aspect ratioSupported Screen Size: 40-300 inches diagonalLCD Panel: D5 (Epson); 3 x 0.7” TFT Active Matrix LCD Iris: Variable twin iris system (powered lens and lamp iris)Accepted Video Formats: 480i/575i/1080i and 480p/720pAccepted Computer Formats: From VGA up to 1152 x 900 + 720p/1080iVideo Inputs: HDMI-HDCP, component (x2), composite, S-video, and PC/RGB (HD15)Color System: NTSC, PAL, SECAM, NTSC 4.43, PAL-M, PAL-NFan Noise: 22 Projection Lens: 2.0x optical zoom; 21.3 – 42.6 mm/F2.0 – 3.0, manual focus & zoomLens Shift: Vertical and horizontal (100% vertical, 50% horizontal) Keystone Correction: +/- 20 degreesLamp: 145 W UHP lampMounting:

ceiling, desk, front/rear (menu configurable)Power Supply: 100-240 volts, 50-60HzPower Consumption: 210 watts (maximumOperating Temperature: 41 – 95 degrees F (5 – 35 degrees C) mount/table-topRemote Control: Backlit, AA x 2 batteriesStandard Accessories: Power cord and adapter, Wireless remote control unit, batteries for remote control, owner’sDimensions: 15” x 5” x 12” in. (382 x 126.8 x 304.3 mm)Weight: 10.2 lbs (5 kg) Very detailed image Usable picture/color controls for HDMI input Extremely quiet 3000 hour bulb life (max) Excellent LCD panel adjustment and maintenance options Reduced screen door effect Requires calibration out of the box, specifically for white and black levels No 12VDC trigger Confused about what AV Gear to buy or how to set it up? Join our Exclusive Audioholics E-Book Membership Program! PLV-Z4 Build Quality & Inputs PLV-Z4 Menu System & Throw Chart PLV-Z4 Remote & Calibration PLV-Z4 Viewing Evaluation & Conclusion

Read the Complete Thread found the answer to the last one.native res: 1280x720 pixelswhich is also its advertised res. Duh on me. krabappleabsent a response, a tentative guess – L1 = HDMI connection; the other is component? Am I getting warmer?no , wait, maybe L1 is moving images and L2 is still photos. But that doesn't explain why there are duplicate sets of L1 headers in the review, with different test values. tesco car vacuum cleanerI suppose I'll get it eventually. water filter vacuum cleaner rainbowNot getting any answers just makes it more fun.mini vacuum cleaner targetSo why not ask a few more –I now have the HQV test disc, and want to compare varioous modes of my player and projector. Does turning off ‘progressive’ (i.e. deinterlacing) in the Sanyo also turn off (up)scaling?

Or does it still (up)scale an interlaced DVD input? If you feed it a progressive (420p) DVD input via component, is there a way to turn off upscaling to 720p in the projector (or does upscaling only happen with HDMI input)? And what is the ‘native’ resolution of the Sanyo anyway? Subscribe for the Latest AV Reviews and Special Member Offers and get the Audioholics Top AV Gear Guide Picks Confused about what AV Gear to Buy or how to set it up? Get ALL 10 Printable Audioholics Set Up and Buying Guide E-Books ($100 value) and Become an Audioholics Member at no additional charge for one low price of $49.95 (limited timeSimple maintenance and cleaning procedures can greatly extend the life and efficiency of your refrigerator. Learn what you need to do to keep your fridge running well now and for years to come.Difficulty: EasyTime Required: 30 minutes or lessWhat You Need:Vacuum cleaner or broomAll-purpose cleanerLevelCleaning ragHere's How:Clean the condenser coils.Dusty condenser coils cause a refrigerator to work harder;

which translates into bigger energy bills and a shorter life expectancy for the fridge – not good. To prevent this from happening, use a vacuum or broom to remove dust build up from the coils every three months (once a month if you have pets). Depending on the model that you own, the coils will either be located behind the refrigerator or underneath the refrigerator. To access coils located underneath, remove the grill at the bottom front of the fridge. To access coils located behind, pull the unit out from the wall. Clean the drain hole and drip pan.Most refrigerators rely on a drain hole and drip pan to remove condensation, so it's important that these function properly. Remove any food particles and mineral deposits from the drain hole according to the instructions in your owner's manual. Then, scrub out the drain pan.Check and clean the gaskets.The gaskets on the refrigerator and freezer doors are designed to seal the cool air in and to keep the warm air out – vital to the efficiency of your fridge.

So, it's important to make sure that seal is as strong as it should be. Look over the gaskets to see if there are an spots that are cracked or otherwise damaged. Then, shut a dollar bill in the door, and see if you can pull it out easily (the seal should create resistance). If either test turns up problems, consider replacing the gasket. Clean the gasket with an all-purpose cleaner, and wipe dry.Change the water filter.Does your refrigerator have an ice maker or a water dispenser? If so, it probably also has a water filter that needs to be changed regularly. Replace your filter every six months or as recommended by the owner's manual. Need a little incentive to shell out for a new filter? Then consider this: water pulled through a dirty filter is often dirtier than before it was filtered. If your refrigerator isn't level the doors may not close on their own or may not seal as tightly as they're supposed to – yet another opportunity for energy loss. Check to see if your fridge is level, by placing a carpenter's level on top of your unit.